Food

Gwen Fowler

SOUTH CAROLINA INSIDER

 

Euphoria wine dinners showcase Greenville's top restaurants

Posted 9/26/2010 9:39:00 AM

Wine dinners were held in six Greenville restaurants Saturday night as part of Euphoria, and I was lucky enough to attend the one at Devereaux’s.

Justin Bogle, the 28-year-old highly regarded chef of GILT in New York, was guest chef of the dinner, working with Devereaux’s Chef/Partner Spencer Thomson.

We were served wine as we entered the restaurant and were invited to visit the bar to meet other diners. Waiters served several interesting appetizers, but the one that seemed to be the favorite of most was salmon wrapped around a tator tot, topped with a dab of crème fraiche.

Several diners were joking about just taking a whole tray of these because they were so delicious.

A more unusual appetizer was what the server called a beet marshmallow with caviar: It had a beet flavor but the consistency of a marshmallow. There also was fried Nori seaweed.

A different wine from Palm Bay Imports was served for each of the six courses of the meal.

The first course was foie gras, topped with small pieces of candied black olive. This was delicious but so rich that I couldn’t even finish the small serving.

One of my favorite courses was the seared sea scallops -- two scallops so large that you had to cut them into several bites. They were served with Brussels sprouts that had been cooked and then minced; the flavor was outstanding. There also was a very savory chicken confit, a term that refers to a way meat is preserved and then slowly cooked in its own fat.

Next course was farm-raised turbot, a flatfish, served with celery and apple.

The crispy sweetbreads was one of the most interesting courses. This very hearty dish was wrapped in prosciutto (What isn’t good wrapped in prosciutto?) and served with a brown butter sauce.

The thick strip loin steak from Niman Ranch in California was topped with a ribbon of ricotta. It was rare and delicious.

Finally, a chocolate bread pudding, which has a brownie-like consistency and was served with a parfait, provided the perfect sweet ending of an incredible meal.

Devereaux's is part of the Table 301 restaurant group, and Table 301 owner Carl Sobocinski briefly welcomed the diners.

Chefs Bogle and Thomson could be spotted working back in the open kitchen, but they weren’t introduced during the evening.

Devereaux’s is in an old cigar factory, with beautiful old brick arches and exposed beams.

Sobocinski and musician Edwin McCain founded Euphoria to draw attention to the city’s great restaurants and other attractions. This is the fifth year of the food, wine and music festival.