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Jackie Hite produces barbecue the old-fashioned way. He burns real wood, stokes his own pits and follows a time-honored method taught to him by former masters of the craft. His smoky, mustard-based hogs boggle the mind, but the skins here will make you slap yourself. A salt and water rub brings out the best in the charring skins and when they're done, boy are they good — the best we've ever eaten. Get there on the weekends and you'll sometimes find whole joints of smoked pork on the bar, waiting for you to rip them to shreds.