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Weekend Getaway Exploring the Revolutionary War in South Carolina’s Old 96 District

Jason Barnette Jason Barnette
Jason Barnette began a career as a travel photographer in 2009 and added travel writing to his resume in 2018 with a focus on road trips with hints of history, coffee and local businesses.
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The Ninety-Six District was the westernmost district of colonial South Carolina. It was a mostly ignored backcountry border between the Charleston elite and the Cherokees. After years of unabated crime, the 1769 Circuit Court Act finally funded a courthouse and jail in the district.

When the American Revolution began, the Ninety-Six District quickly became a hotly contested area between Patriots and Loyalists. The newly built jail was the site of South Carolina’s first Revolutionary War battle and the state’s first casualty of war.

Discover the places where you can explore the Revolutionary War in South Carolina’s Old 96 District, where you can stay and a few other things to do. 

Friday

3 p.m. – Guided Tour of Horn’s Creek Baptist Church

In the early 1760s, Daniel and Martha Marshall opened a series of churches along the Great Wagon Road through Virginia and North Carolina. In 1768, they settled in the Ninety-Six District and founded Horn’s Creek Baptist Church.

During the Revolutionary War, the South Carolina backcountry was a contentious region that pitted neighbors against each other. In 1781, Patriot Captain Thomas Key attacked a British outpost on the nearby creek, killing one and capturing three others. Later that same year, Loyalists captured a Patriot blockhouse.

The Edgefield County Historical Society offers complimentary guided tours of Horn’s Creek Baptist Church. Built in 1784, the church and adjacent graveyard are preserved for interpretation. The church is remote, on a passable gravel road with no cellular service. It’s recommended to call the historical society in advance to book a tour and then meet at their museum in downtown Edgefield.

5 p.m. – Dinner in Edgefield

Edgefield is a charming small town known for being the hometown of 10 South Carolina governors. The town square is surrounded by local shopping and dining and is an excellent place to park the car for the evening and walk to dinner.

Mario’s Pizzeria is one of the latest additions to the town, churning out made-to-order brick oven pizzas. Christine’s Farm to Fork is only open for dinner and features a large menu of appetizers, entrees and steaks, and features many local ingredients. The Old Edgefield Grille is the most interesting place to dine in town, located inside a converted house. Get a table on the covered front porch or inside one of the rooms with views through towering windows.

7 p.m. – Drinks at South Bend Winery

After a satisfying meal, take the drive to Greenwood and finish the evening with a few drinks at South Bend Winery. Opened in 2020, owners Larry and Amanda Cozine won Best in Show at the 2022 Palmetto Wine Competition—their first commercial competition.

Enjoy a full tasting in their gorgeous tasting room or sit outside in lawn furniture around a fire pit. After finding a favorite wine, you can order by the glass and relax until you’re ready to call it a night.

Where to Stay: The Inn on the Square is a cozy boutique hotel perfect for a weekend getaway in Greenwood. Book one of the corner rooms in the main building for spectacular views or stay in one of the rooms with private decks behind the hotel. Enjoy a complimentary hot breakfast in the morning and drinks at the Fox and Hound in the evenings.

122 Old Mt Moriah Rd, Greenwood, SC | 864-377-8591 

 

Saturday

9 a.m. – Breakfast at West End Cafe

West End Cafe doesn’t look like much for the road—it’s a simple building with a dozen parking spaces. But it’s the best place for breakfast in Greenwood. Opened in 2012, the locally owned restaurant features made-to-order omelets, pancakes or French toast. If you’re unsure what to order, the West End Sampler features the best of their menu.

108 Old Abbeville Hwy, Greenwood, SC | 864-538-4440 

11 p.m. – Explore Downtown Greenwood

In the late 1800s, downtown was split down the middle by railroad tracks carrying freight and passengers to Augusta. When the tracks were removed, the city designed a gorgeous urban landscape with shady trees and plenty of parking. Leave the car behind and explore downtown on foot.

Main & Maxwell is a haven for local artisans’ work. McCaslan’s Book Store next door has a nice collection of regional history and travel books to help you learn more about the Old 96 region. If you want to learn more history of the town, the Greenwood Museum features full-size recreations of a general store and dress shop, along with dozens of other exhibits.

1 p.m. – Lunch at Fat Daddy’s BBQ

South Carolina claims to be the birthplace of barbecue. Whether or not it’s true, the best barbecue restaurant in Greenwood is Fat Daddy’s BBQ. Meats are slowly smoked every day of the week and hand cut for the best results. Place your order at the counter, and within minutes your meal is served on a metal tray. Combo plates come with two types of meat and two sides, you can order a sandwich, or the nachos (which are out of the world)—topped with your choice of pork, chicken or brisket.

115 Hampton Ave, Greenwood, SC | 864-223-9111 

3 p.m. – Visit Ninety Six National Historic Site

Ninety Six National Historic Site
The one-mile Historic Interpretive Trail takes you to the site of the Star Fort, a British earthwork built to protect the important frontier town of Ninety Six.

To secure Cherokee neutrality in the Revolutionary War, the South Carolina Council of Safety—the de facto government at the time—sent a shipment of gunpowder and lead along the Cherokee Path. However, just north of Ninety Six, the load was captured by Loyalists under the command of Patrick Cunningham. The Council of Safety immediately dispatched Colonel Andrew Williamson, a hero of the Cherokee War of 1776, to capture Cunningham.

Williamson arrived in Ninety Six with some 550 militiamen. They built a temporary, rudimentary stockade fort at Savage’s Old Fields near the town’s courthouse. Shortly after, Cunningham arrived with nearly 2,000 Loyalists and surrounded the fort. From November 19 – 21, 1775, the Battle of Ninety Six was fought. It was South Carolina’s first significant engagement of the Revolutionary War and led to the state’s first soldier killed in action.

Almost five years later, the war returned to the south. Lieutenant Colonel John Harris Cruger arrived in Ninety Six to fortify the backcountry town. Arriving in late August, he supervised the construction of the Star Fort.

General Nathanael Greene arrived on May 22, 1781, and laid siege to the fort and town. Cruger and nearly 550 Loyalists from New York, New Jersey and South Carolina successfully repelled the surrounding Continental Army inside the fort. The siege lasted 37 days, the longest of the Revolutionary War. Facing British reinforcements from Charleston, Greene ended the siege and retreated.

Today, Ninety Six National Historic Site preserves these battlefields and the remarkably intact Star Fort. A self-guided, paved trail weaves through the park to a recreation of the 1775 stockade fort, through the site of the original town and past the Star Fort. The visitor center features a high-quality historical film that brings this history to life on the small screen.

1103 SC-248, Ninety Six, SC | 864-543-4068 

6 p.m. – Dinner at The Mill House

In 2010, Gianpaolo Bonaca and Paul Bartolomeo introduced Greenwood to delicious brick oven pizzas when they opened The Mill House. Over a decade later, it’s still a local favorite—a testament to the quality of the food. Their menu features over a dozen signature recipes, or you can design your pizza from the crust up. You can also choose a pasta dish, sub sandwich or calzone.

237 Maxwell Ave, Greenwood, SC | 864-323-0321 

8 p.m. – Drinks at Good Times Brewing

Bonaca and Bartolomeo always envisioned craft beer as part of the pizza experience—can everyone agree pizza and beer are a perfect pairing? By 2016, the duo opened Good Times Brewing beside their flagship restaurant. They aren’t afraid of experimenting with their craft beers, so you can typically find lagers, pilsners and porters on tap, along with the traditional IPA and stout. Enjoy a flight at the bar, grab a seat in the comfortable chairs, or head upstairs for foosball and an outdoor balcony overlooking the quiet city.

233 Maxwell Ave, Greenwood, SC | 864-223-2739 

Sunday

9 a.m. – Breakfast at the Carriage House Restaurant

The Carriage House Restaurant at the Inn on the Square, a boutique hotel in downtown Greenwood, is an excellent place to start the day. Breakfast is complimentary for hotel guests, but everyone else pays a modest $15 for a choice of four items from the simple menu. Options include free-range eggs cooked to order, country sausage, seasoned breakfast potatoes and country gravy on a buttermilk biscuit.

104 Court Ave E, Greenwood, SC 29646 | 864-330-1010 

11 a.m. – Battle of Musgrove Mill State Historic Site

Musgrove Mill Revolutionary Encampment 2022, photos by Mikaela Groomes
Be sure to attend a Revolutionary War reenactment at Musgrove Mill State Historic Site if one is offered during the time of your visit.

After their significant victory at the Battle of Camden, the British quickly moved to secure the Upcountry and, thereby, all of South Carolina. A band of British Provincials occupied the site of Edward Musgrove’s mill along the Enoree River. It was the perfect target.

Lieutenant Colonels Isaac Shelby, Elijah Clarke and James Williams met near the mill. With a combined force of 200 militiamen, the colonels developed a plan of feint and surprise. On the morning of August 18, 1780, Captain Shadrack Inman took 25 men across the Enoree River and acted “surprised” to bump into the British encampment.

The British gave chase, quickly crossing the river in a blur of red and white, only to run into the hastily built breastworks of the American position. The battle didn’t last long and was hurried by the death of the British commander. By the end, nearly 150 British were dead or wounded and 70 were captured. The Americans lost only a dozen, one of them was Inman.

The Battle of Musgrove Mill State Historic Site preserves the site of the British encampment. The battle took place where the nearby highway crosses the Enoree River. The visitor center features an interactive table that replays the movements during the battle. You can walk a trail through the site of the British camp or drive across the river to take a walk through a portion of the battlefield.

398 State Park Rd, Clinton, SC 29325 | 864-938-0100 

Jason Barnette
Jason Barnette began a career as a travel photographer in 2009 and added travel writing to his resume in 2018 with a focus on road trips with hints of history, coffee and local businesses.