Barbecue hasn’t always been on the radar of Charleston’s acclaimed food scene. A little more than a decade ago, the beloved South Carolina tradition of whole hog smoked pork was eclipsed by novelties from the area’s most lauded kitchens.
Pork belly this-and-that, shrimp and grits served in myriad ways, house-made charcuterie and locavorism that made gastronomic stars out of triggerfish, wreckfish and other once-unfamiliar local catch garnered most all the attention.
It seemed there was no room for lowly barbecue among these delicious new trends. But that all changed when pitmasters like Rodney Scott of Rodney Scott’s Whole Hog BBQ, who gained recognition as a James Beard Best Chef – Southeast award winner in 2018, began earning accolades for skillful execution of smoked meat.
Now, the aromas of smoky pulled pork, brisket, ribs and chicken richly waft across the Lowcountry thanks to barbecue joints like Swig & Swine, Home Team BBQ and Lewis Barbecue. As the succulent mix of South Carolina and Texas styles are devoured from the historic district to the sea islands, some pitmasters are using their slow-and-low chops to turn Charleston into a melting pot of barbecue artistry.
Here are three area restaurants where barbecue is a global adventure thanks to an approach that incorporates the cultural roots and creative craftsmanship of the pitmasters working the smokers.
Rancho Lewis
1503 King Street, Charleston
Making a space for Texas-style barbecue in the land of whole hog was no small feat. But John Lewis, who hails from El Paso, is no ordinary pitmaster. The wild success of Lewis Barbecue has translated into a growing appreciation for border cuisine at his Mexican-style concept, Rancho Lewis. The full-rack, beef back ribs spend the night in a mesquite pit then get a caramelizing sizzle over a wood fire before landing on the table. These tender ribs will stick to yours and wow you with their smoky flavor.
King BBQ
2029 Carver Avenue, North Charleston
Chinese cuisine gets a smoky treatment at King BBQ. After building an admiring fan base with their New Chinese American dishes at Jackrabbit Filly, Corrie and Shuai Wang embarked on a mission to fuse Southern and Chinese American barbecue traditions. On the menu you’ll find all kinds of fun fusion creations like Moo Shu Chopped Smoked Pork served with pickled collards, hoisin and steamed pancakes and the Hash Dog with house-made sausage, red slaw, hot mustard and, in a nod to South Carolina barbecue culture, a ladle of bbq hash. (What’s “hash” you say? Learn about it here.
Palmira Barbecue
2366 Ashley River Rd Building 1, Charleston
From fledgling pop-up to brick-and-mortar enterprise, Palmira’s owner and pitmaster Hector Garate has become a notable figure on the craft barbecue scene. His unique, whole-hog approach melds the flavors of South Carolina, Texas and his native Puerto Rico. Brisket, ribs, barbacoa and chicken are all represented. For a barbecue adventure, try the ridiculously tender smoked beef cheeks. Whole-hog barbecue, sourced from regional farms raising heritage pigs, is cooked over wood fire for 12 hours and basted with a spicy sofrito for Caribbean flair. Locals will be pleased to see hash and rice as a side item along with collards and other traditional accompaniments. Fans of baked beans should opt for the Puerto Rican version—saucy and spicy.
