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Meet Darren Smith, South Carolina Chef Ambassador 2025

Libby Wiersema Libby Wiersema
Libby Wiersema lived in California and Alabama before settling in South Carolina 38 years ago, where she's covered the state's best culinary offerings and tells the stories behind the food.
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"We are truly blessed to be in an area with wonderful produce, fish and meats as well as talented people we can do business with."

Before serving locally sourced vegetables, meats, fish and fruits acquired the moniker “farm to table,” Darren Smith was embodying the concept. When he and his wife opened Rivertown Bistro in Conway in 1994, they created a menu based upon the foods they liked to eat. Their landlord at the time made it even easier.

“At our first meeting he said, ‘I'm not sure what you're going to serve, but I'm a farmer, and if you'd like, I'll bring you what I grow.’ So, he planted, and I took everything I could,” said Chef Smith. “I spent time on his farm, and he taught me a lot. Eventually, I planted my own acre garden and grew all the vegetables and flowers for the restaurant.”

That kind of commitment to fresh and local put Rivertown Bistro on the culinary map and led to Chef Smith being named to the 2025 lineup of South Carolina Chef Ambassadors. Established in 2014, the program selects accomplished chefs to promote the state’s rich agricultural heritage and showcase South Carolina as a preeminent dining destination. They deliver that message through public appearances, roundtable discussions and cooking demonstrations at food festivals, expos and other culinary events.

A Charleston native and Navy brat, Chef Smith spent his childhood on the move and even lived two years in England. He played soccer for Winthrop University, but when his future in sports grew murky, his brother, Scott, influenced him to take a different career path altogether.

“My brother was paving his way in professional kitchens,” said Chef Smith. “So, I decided to follow in his footsteps.”

He met his wife, Cyndi, while working as the executive chef of Shem Creek Bar & Grill, One-Eyed Parrot and Banana Cabana. When the couple relocated to her hometown of Conway, the idea for Rivertown Bistro took root and a landmark restaurant was born—a remarkable accomplishment for a 25-year-old chef and budding entrepreneur.

“I am lucky to have been a part of Conway and South Carolina’s food scene for over 30 years,” said Chef Smith, who also serves up smoked meats and Southwestern-style Mexican eats at his barbecue concept, Bonfire Taqueria on the Conway Riverwalk.

The Big Fried Chicken Biscuit from Rivertown Bistro makes for a hearty lunch.

In this Q & A, he shares more about his culinary philosophy and how it defines his career as a South Carolina chef:

Q: Who was your first inspiration in the kitchen?

Chef Smith: Growing up, I loved being in my mom's kitchen, just helping and stirring. She wasn't the best cook, but she tried to please us with her efforts. I specifically remember her spaghetti sauce and baking Christmas cookies with her.

Q: What is it about Rivertown Bistro that satisfies your culinary vision? What do you take pride in most?

Chef Smith: I take the most pride in the relationships I've had with all the farmers, artisans and fishermen in this great town. I'm also really proud of my restaurant family—those who help run the restaurant daily and even those who have gone on to pursue other adventures.

Q: How would you describe your chef style?

Chef Smith: I would call my food creative American, a kind of rustic yet refined melting pot that relies upon what's at hand and in season. We are truly blessed to be in an area with wonderful produce, fish and meats as well as talented people we can do business with.

Q: What local ingredient(s) are "musts" when stocking your larder?

Chef Smith: I love our local seafood—grouper, snapper, trigger fish, sheepshead. We also have the best shrimp, clams and sheepshead. I also rely upon tomatoes, corn, turnips, collard greens, field peas (especially white acre) and local honey.

Q: What do you want the dining public to know about the food scene in South Carolina?

Chef Smith: South Carolina has it all, from the mountains and rivers to the Midlands and down into the Lowcountry. We are blessed with the best agricultural products the earth has to offer.

Libby Wiersema
Libby Wiersema lived in California and Alabama before settling in South Carolina 38 years ago, where she's covered the state's best culinary offerings and tells the stories behind the food.