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Discover Florence and the Pee Dee

Libby Wiersema Libby Wiersema
Libby Wiersema lived in California and Alabama before settling in South Carolina 38 years ago, where she's covered the state's best culinary offerings and tells the stories behind the food.
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"The Pee Dee" - it's apt that such an unusual name represents one of South Carolina's most interesting regions.

Comprised of seven counties - Darlington, Dillon, Florence, Lee, Marion, Marlboro and Williamsburg - this eastern area of the state was named for its early inhabitants, the Native American Pee Dee Indians, as well as two major rivers that ramble through it: the Great Pee Dee and the Little Pee Dee.

This region is where agricultural roots, natural beauty and an unhurried way of life remain time-honored despite proclivities to modern lifestyles and a robust local industrial presence.

Take a long weekend to delve into the past, explore gardens and outdoor recreation, immerse yourself in the arts, take in a concert or play, get your fill of great South Carolina barbecue, enjoy energetic nightlife or do some antique shopping.

The Pee Dee offers all this and then some.

Friday

Take a short drive to Kalmia Gardens, a 35-acre botanical garden brimming with camellias, azaleas, dogwood, rhododendrons, wisteria and other flowering plants.

Morning

Ease into your first day with a freshly brewed java drink at Midnight Rooster in Hartsville. The eclectic café, set in the heart of the downtown business district, has a funky vibe that will set the mood for a morning of shopping at the town's many specialty stores, all within walking distance. For a down-home breakfast, snag a booth at Carolina Lunch 155 - a small local haunt with big Southern heart and great waffles. 

Stow your packages in the back seat and mosey over to the Hartsville Museum where you'll see the "Locomobile," South Carolina's first car, learn about the role cotton played in the area's economy and view exhibits about early Native American inhabitants.

When you're finished, take a short drive to Kalmia Gardens, a 35-acre botanical garden brimming with camellias, azaleas, dogwood, rhododendrons, wisteria and other flowering plants. Follow the trails to learn about the diverse fauna and flora, and take the boardwalks down to the gently flowing waters of Black Creek.

Also on the grounds of this former plantation is the historic Thomas Hart House, which once served as the residence of the town's first postmaster, and later, home to other persons important to Hartsville history.

South of Pearl serves a homestyle buffet lunch on weekdays.

Afternoon

Head over to Darlington and have lunch at Joe's Grill, housed in an unassuming clapboard building a few blocks from the town square. At this locals' favorite, the burgers are hand-patted, the fries freshly cut and the meat-and-three plates are served up hot and heaping.

For a meat-and-three experience oozing with Southern refinement, seek out South of Pearl. Inside this gracious former residence of author, Elizabeth Boatwright Coker, you can enjoy a delicious buffet then let it all settle as you sit a spell on the lovely front porch.

Now that you've had your fill of home-cooking and sweet tea, hop back in the car and drive over to the place that put this town on the map: Darlington Raceway, home of the Southern 500. Visit the track's Stock Car Museum and National Motorsports Press Association Hall of Fame for a raceway history lesson and to learn about NASCAR's greatest legends.

Great beer and community - that's the mission of Hartsville's Wild Heart Brewing Company.

Evening

Check out live entertainment at the Grand Old Post Office, a restored part of Darlington history that regularly offers ticketed events.

You can also opt to drive a few miles to the quaint downtown of Hartsville. Watch the sunset while sipping your favorite cocktail at the rooftop bar in The Mantissa, Hartsville's upscale boutique hotel, or grab a cold craft beer and wood-fired pizza at Wild Heart Brewing.

For a more substantial meal, head down Fifth Street and enjoy curries and other exotic Asian flavors at Bow Thai Cuisine or try upscale American grill favorites at Sam Kendall's next door to The Mantissa.

Have an after-dinner coffee at Crema Coffee Bar, where you might just catch a local musical act, or check out Center Theater for live performances.

Saturday

Fresh produce abounds at the Pee Dee State Farmers Market in Florence.

Morning

Pick up a taste of the region when you hit the Pee Dee State Farmers Market, located between Darlington and Florence on US 52. Fresh vegetables, local honey and other products, plants, herbs and more fill this sweeping, open-air affair - the largest farmers market in South Carolina.

Or go for all-local farm-fresh produce, meats, seafood, pasta, cheeses, breads and a freshly prepared breakfast or lunch made from market products at the City Center Farmer's Market, operating on Sanborn Street in downtown.

Relax with a cup of coffee in downtown Florence at Lula's, sit down to a tasty grits bowl and other breakfast options at LilJazZis, or indulge in something decadent with handmade Belgian chocolates and artisan gelato at Chocobella.

To satisfy your artsy appetite, walk to the nearby Florence County Museum, home of the Wright Collection of Southern Art as well as historical artifacts and some of the best traveling exhibits in the nation.

At the other end of Dargan Street, don't miss Francis Marion University's Gately Gallery, where artists and art lovers can immerse themselves in the current exhibits.  

 

Pitmaster Elliott Moss is working his 'cue-craft at Seminar Brewing in Florence.

Afternoon

Back track to Wholly Smokin' for a smoked-meat lunch with all the fixings. Want great craft beer with great whole hog barbecue? Acclaimed pitmaster, Elliott Moss, has you covered at Elliott's BBQ Lounge at Seminar Brewing on W. Lucas Street. 

Of course, all barbecue afficionados will want to make the drive to rural Hemingway where famed pitmaster Rodney Scott honed his chops at Scott's Bar-B-Que. Though Rodney Scott now operates his own barbecue joints in Charleston and beyond, his family continues the tradition at the humble place where it all began. There's no indoor seating, but you can carry out or park yourself on an outdoor bench and enjoy this legendary 'cue. 

For something old that's new to you, spend the afternoon wandering the aisles of Florence's Palmetto Peddlers, where multiple vendors sell their retro and vintage wares. Or put on your walking shoes and tackle the 40 acres of Florence Flea Market. With more than 750 vendors, you're bound to find just about anything and everything.

If shopping's not your thing, opt to visit some of the Pee Dee's historical sites.

Begin with the Florence National Cemetery, established in 1865. This site was initially a Civil War stockade that became the grave site of Union soldiers who died in captivity. An interpretive walking trail and historical markers tell the story of those dark times while conferring appropriate honor on all who rest there. A newer section of the cemetery serves as the final resting place for US soldiers who served in various conflicts.

 

Florence Veterans Park, located behind the Florence Civic Center, is a moving tribute to those who served or who are serving in the US military. A water wall and pool, plaques, an amphitheater and sculptures by world-renowned artist and former Florentine, Alex Palkovich, make for a thought-provoking experience.

Speaking of art and history, nearby Lake City is home to a poignant, but Pee Dee-proud point of interest: the Ronald E. McNair Memorial and Life History Center. The late NASA astronaut and pioneer physicist, a Lake City native, lost his life in the 1986 Challenger space shuttle disaster. Learn how he overcame the burdens of discrimination to become one of the most remarkable figures in the history of this region - and nation.

When you're finished, check out this artsy little town, which is home to ArtFields - a major event each spring that draws art lovers from across the country. Have fun seeking out the public art installations and galleries, then do some shopping along the town's charming Main Street, brimming with antique dealers, gift stores, clothing boutiques and art shops.

Find trendy jewelry at The Cabbage Patch or pick up a unique souvenir at Main Street Mercantile

Evening

Sit down to a relaxing, expertly prepared dinner at Victor's in Hotel Florence.

Florence is rich with notable dining and imbibing choices, among them Tubb's Shrimp and Fish Co., where the seafood comes fresh from the ocean, the iconic Redbone Alley, featuring innovative South Carolina cuisine, Victor's in Hotel Florence and, across the street, Town Hall, two of the area's most popular fine dining establishments.

For inspired wines, pizza and charcuterie, Cru Wine & Tap next to Hotel Florence is a popular spot.  Craving some blues with something good to eat? Fill up on live jazz and delicious tapas at Jazz on Dargan just around the corner.

When it comes to an authentic Italian dining experience, Il Buongustaio on Celebration Boulevard will transport you to the Old Country as will Da Massimo, a small cafe on S. Irby Street with a dedicated following. Reservations are strongly recommended for both.

Back in downtown Florence, head to The Dispensary for rooftop cocktails and sweeping views of the city.

If you want a cold one, whet your whistle at one of a trio of breweries around town: Southern HopsLocal Motive and Seminar. 

 

The gorgeous façade of Francis Marion University’s Performing Arts Center is your first clue you’re entering a state-of-the-art venue.

Most weekends, there's plenty of live music at each to enhance the festive mood of your evening. The state-of-the-art Francis Marion University Performing Arts Center, home to the Florence Symphony Orchestra, also regularly features an exciting lineup of well-known performers and programs.

Plays and musicals are the specialties of Lake City Community TheaterFlorence Little Theater and Francis Marion University, each of which offers seasonal live theater spotlighting the finest local talent - and there's plenty in the Pee Dee.

Sunday

The Cheraw State Park Golf Course offers challenge and beauty for golfers and is considered one of the best kept secrets in South Carolina.

Morning

Sleep in, have a leisurely brunch at Victor's or Wholly Smokin', then change into your duds for some outdoor adventure.

Stop by a supermarket to pick up provisions for a picnic and pack a cooler. Now you're ready to explore the beautiful trails and waterways of the Pee Dee at area parks or through local outfitters such as River Rats. Advanced planning is a must, of course, and don't forget the bug spray and sunscreen!

Afternoon

Canoe and kayak rentals are offered at Cheraw State Park, which features walking trails, a golf course and a 300-acre lake.

At Little Pee Dee State Park, you can choose to paddle its 54-acre lake or the Little Pee Dee River.

 

The canopy walk at Lynches River County Park gives you a birds-eye view of the river and woods.

You can also follow the South Carolina Revolutionary Rivers Trails by putting in at Lynches River County Park near Florence. This waterway trail takes you deep into the cypress swamps - the stomping grounds of the legendary Revolutionary War hero, General Francis "Swamp Fox" Marion, whose keen knowledge of the landscape helped him outsmart the British.

Make a stop at the park's Environmental Discovery Center to see live critters and learn about the area's rich habitat. For a different perspective, meander through the treetops on the canopy walk and make sure you have a camera in hand. You'll want pics to remember the breathtaking beauty of this Pee Dee treasure.

Evening

Time to head home. Amazingly, there's still so much to see and do in the Pee Dee, so make plans to return soon.

Pee Dee Lodging Options

From cozy to elegant to hip, accommodations in this region are, well, accommodating! For a comfortable, laid-back "time out" from Life's hustle and bustle, consider a stay at one of the Pee Dee's many fine inns or hotels.

The Breeden Inn offers four 19th century houses appointed with antiques and surrounded by lavish gardens. Situated in the historic Marlboro County town of Bennettsville, this property is designed for relaxation and quiet. Whirlpools for two make it a popular choice for couples.

For those with discriminating tastes in both lodging and dining, Abingdon Manor in the quaint town of Latta is your perfect getaway place. This stately Greek Revival manor house offers award-winning fine dining nightly as well as gracious accommodations in the tradition of the best English country inns. Even if you don't stay overnight, you can often secure a dinner reservation if space allows.

Some of the Pee Dee's most popular towns offer boutique hotels for those who enjoy a central location, modern atmosphere and upscale creature comforts.

In downtown Hartsville, The Mantissa is where it's at with hip executive suites and a rooftop bar for sunset cocktails.

The Inn at the Crossroads in Lake City, draws travelers with its spacious rooms, modern décor and popular onsite restaurant.

If you're visiting Florence, the activity hub of the Pee Dee, a stay at Hotel Florence is a must, especially if you want to walk to the bars, restaurants and art galleries of downtown.

A lot of guests simply stay put, though, and enjoy the plush rooms, fine onsite dining at Victor's or music and drinks in the hotel's lovely courtyard.

Libby Wiersema
Libby Wiersema lived in California and Alabama before settling in South Carolina 38 years ago, where she's covered the state's best culinary offerings and tells the stories behind the food.